The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

An unexpected discovery on the London Underground in 1988 altered the course of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the London's electric 1990s cultural landscape, evolving from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"That era was the zenith of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that rawness."

While Enninful may seem sentimental, he is not the only one. Lately, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has grown intense. However over the last thirty years, Enninful perceives a profound shift. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is hard to ignore: the rise of nationalist groups, the reaction against so-called "wokeness", and the reassertion of Eurocentric beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the Blair era, currently a more divisive political force stands as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an symbol of cultural optimism, has become contentious again.

For Enninful, the response has long been to promote culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the driving force behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a diverse array of cultural icons from literature.

"Those in a position of influence should wield it," he asserts, discussing those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain was not a open country, if it refused my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I believe this moment will end."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He finds hope in the younger generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They talk about systemic issues – I didn't even know what that was."

His formative years would define a groundbreaking career characterised by fearlessness and representation. Enninful set a precedent as the first male, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured diverse covers showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Importantly, sales grew.

"Ignoring vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re not being inclusive – it’s bad for business," he explains.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has established his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since moving on from his previous role. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator".

"I’ve always questioned the status quo. I was raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was incredibly timid. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … those experiences gave me a unique perspective between worlds."

Contrary to the caricature of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is calm and radiates serenity. His path has involved hardship, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also faced significant health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in limited vision. "I endured such a time of fear for two years, not working, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This determination to fit into a box has inspired him outside the realm that established him. He is now organising a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a host of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and spotlight those who lacked adequate attention at the time.

"Galleries sometimes neglected to shine a light on the most relevant talents because they did not have the traditional credentials," he states.

This venture itself functions with a novel strategy, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a greater ecosystem."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful stands as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His journey, he states, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the Enninful of that era think of the his current self? He smiles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be pleased. At that time I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He adds. "Gratitude is key. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."